Villages of the Ligurian coast

Apricale climbs its rocky spur beneath the Castello della Lucertola, which now hosts exhibitions. Look up at the bell tower for the upturned bicycle, then pause over a glass of Rossese di Dolceacqua before heading on to Perinaldo.

Perinaldo is the birthplace of the astronomer Cassini, so visit the observatory if you can. Then walk the village's narrow crest to the Castello Maraldi, where Napoleon spent a night. Cervo, facing the sea, comes next.

Cervo is a fine place to finish the day. Climb the steps to the Chiesa dei Corallini, whose curved front faces the sea, and look in at the Castello Clavesana and its ethnographic museum. Stay the night here, with a glass of Vermentino as the light fades.

Laigueglia sits right on its bay. Look for the church of San Matteo, whose twin bell towers are topped with bright majolica domes, then stroll the beach to the old Bastione di Levante. Stuffed sardines make a good lunch before you go on to Finalborgo.

Finalborgo is a walled town set back from the sea, where two streams meet. Admire San Biagio and its eight-sided bell tower, then wander the two Renaissance cloisters of the Santa Caterina convent. Castel San Giovanni looks down from the hill above. Noli is next.

Noli was once a maritime republic in its own right. Visit San Paragorio, where Noli's independence was signed, then climb up to the Castello di Monte Ursino and its round keep for the sea view. Sleep here tonight, by the bay.

Moneglia fills a wide bay along the Riviera di Levante. Look at the front of Santa Croce for the links of the old Pisan harbour chain, then step into San Giorgio and its cloister. Then on to Vernazza, in the Cinque Terre.

Leave the car outside and come into Vernazza on foot. Stroll to the little harbour, climb up to the Doria Castle for the view, and end the evening with a glass of Sciacchetrà. Settle in here for the night, by the sheltered harbour.

Tellaro is a fishing village on a cliff above the gulf. Find the church of San Giorgio, with its plaque about the octopus that rang the bell, then wander down to the little harbour. Then on to Montemarcello.

The journey ends at Montemarcello, a quiet village high on the Caprione headland. Wander its straight streets, look out over the gulf and the Magra valley, and keep an eye out for the local binèi figs. From here the road leads on to Pisa Airport.