Across La Mancha to Jaén

Your first night is at Alcalá del Júcar. Wander the car-free lanes between the cave houses, climb to the Almohad castle on its crag, and have supper in one of the old caves turned restaurants before you settle in for the evening.

Letur keeps the street plan of its Islamic builders. Wander the whitewashed lanes and patios, then look for the streams and waterfalls in the sierra around, where you can swim. Settle in for the night here, and try the migas ruleras at supper.

Segura de la Sierra is crowned by a Mudéjar castle with surviving walls. Climb the quiet lanes, stop at the Renaissance Fuente Imperial, and visit the restored Arab baths. Stay the night here, at the edge of the natural park.

The day begins at Villanueva de los Infantes, where Quevedo died. Visit the cell in the Santo Domingo convent, then the Plaza Mayor, framed by mansions, and the Casa del Caballero del Verde Gabán from Don Quixote. Pause for a coffee before Almagro.

Arrive in Almagro and head for the Plaza Mayor, with its colonnades and green glazed galleries. Book a play at the Corral de Comedias, a theatre still in use, then try the Almagro aubergines before you stay the night here.

Your last stop is Baños de la Encina, on a hill between the sierra and the olive plain. Climb to Burgalimar castle, step into the church of San Mateo and look for the restored windmill, then have migas serranas for lunch before the road on to Jaén.