Romagna and the Malatesta castles

Begin among the painted walls of Dozza, where artists have turned the houses into an open-air gallery. Climb to the Rocca, then drop into the wine cellars of the Enoteca Regionale and taste an Albana di Dozza before continuing to Bagnara di Romagna.

Bagnara di Romagna is a castle village still in one piece. Walk the full circuit of walls, ramparts and moat, step into the rocca where Caterina Sforza held her secret meeting, and then go on to Brisighella for the night.

Brisighella is where you stay tonight. Stroll the raised, covered Via degli Asini, climb to the Rocca Manfrediana or the clock tower for the view, and taste the town's olive oil with your supper. Settle in for the evening among the three crags.

Day two starts on the hill of Bertinoro. Find the Colonna dell'Ospitalità with its rings, where a tied horse once meant a host, and visit the old rocca, now a sacred art museum. Raise a glass of Albana, then on to San Giovanni in Marignano.

In San Giovanni in Marignano, look down: the grain pits of the Malatesta show through the paving of the Via di Mezzo. Then admire the town gate tower and the tiny Teatro Massari, and sit down to passatelli asciutti with ragù before moving on to Montegridolfo.

Montegridolfo, a small walled village on the ridge between two regions, ends the day. Walk through its single gate tower and along the restored lanes, learn about the war at the Gothic Line museum, then taste the local honey and find a bed here or nearby for the night.

Day three begins at the Malatesta fortress of Montefiore Conca. Walk through its furnished rooms and up to the roof terrace to look along the Riviera, then, if you come in autumn, try roast chestnuts before heading to San Leo.

San Leo rises on a sheer rock, crowned by its fortress, now an arms museum and art gallery. Climb up, then step into the Romanesque cathedral below and look out over the Marecchia valley towards San Marino before the last stop at Verucchio.

Verucchio closes the trip in the first home of the Malatesta. Explore the Rocca Malatestiana, with its dungeons and great hall, and see the Villanovan amber in the archaeological museum, then take the road down to Rimini and the sea.