White villages of Andalusia

Arrive in Frigiliana and leave the car for the cobbled lanes of the old Moorish quarter. Follow the ceramic panels that tell the story of the Morisco revolt, and visit El Ingenio, which still makes sugar-cane honey. Stay the night here, and ask for the miel de caña at dessert.

Genalguacil is a village that doubles as an open-air gallery, with murals and sculptures along its lanes. Look for the sculpted old woman who is tired of the hill, and visit the Fernando Centeno López museum of contemporary art. Stay the night here or nearby, and try the hot gazpacho.

Castellar de la Frontera is a village set entirely within a Nasrid fortress, ringed by cork-oak woods. Walk its lanes and climb to the castle for views that reach Gibraltar on a clear day, before the drive on to Vejer de la Frontera.

Vejer de la Frontera crowns its hilltop above the Barbate river. Walk up to the castle for the views from its walls, pass under the Arco de las Monjas and rest on the Plaza de España, with its tiled fountain. Stay the night here, and perhaps try the lomo en manteca.

Grazalema is walking country. The village lies below the Peñón Grande, and trails lead through the natural park, one to the Goatherd's Leap and another to the pinsapar, a wood of rare Spanish fir. Have the Payoyo cheese at lunch, then drive on to Zahara de la Sierra.

Zahara de la Sierra rises under a Moorish castle keep, and the climb rewards you with wide views. Down below, the reservoir and the Garganta Verde gorge, where griffon vultures nest, invite you to kayak or walk. Settle in for the evening here, and try the suspiros de Zahara.

Setenil de las Bodegas is the last stop. Wander the streets where houses are built beneath the overhanging rock, then climb to the ruined Nasrid castle that looks over the town. Sit down to migas with chorizo before the final drive to Seville.