Levante, Lunigiana and Garfagnana

You begin at Framura, a village made of five small hamlets by the sea. Wander between Costa, with its ancient tower, and the nearby coves, which have been awarded the Blue Flag. Snack on the region's Genoese focaccia, then on to Deiva Marina.

Deiva Marina is a good place to stretch your legs. Follow the coastal path through vineyards and pinewoods towards Framura or Moneglia, or take in the sea from the old village around its watchtower. In October the Castagnata serves the local picagge matte, then on to Brugnato.

Brugnato is where the day ends. Visit the co-cathedral, once an abbey church, and notice the two naves split by great stone columns, then wander the village that grew around the monks' monastery. Stay the night here or nearby.

Varese Ligure is all about its oval Borgo Rotondo, planned by the Fieschi family. Walk its arcades, cross the single-arch Ponte di Grecino, and stop at the castle at the north end. For lunch, try a dish with the region's pesto, then on to Compiano.

At Compiano the castle of the Landi family sits above the walled village. Tour its furnished rooms, with their tapestries and paintings, and see the Masonic museum inside it. Look out for the Borgotaro porcini mushroom on local menus. Then on to Mulazzo.

Mulazzo is your second night, and Dante is never far away. Visit the Casa di Dante museum in the old tower house and the monument by Arturo Dazzi, then watch the evening fall over the Lunigiana hills. Stay the night here.

Castiglione di Garfagnana is a walled town perched on a spur over the Serchio. Walk the walls between the great towers, visit San Pietro, and enjoy the belvedere. For lunch, ask for chestnut polenta with pork ribs. Then on to Barga.

Your journey ends at Barga, entered through Porta Reale. Climb to the Romanesque Duomo to see the pulpit resting on carved lions, then stand on the Arringo lawn. Many people left from here for Scotland, and each August a festival of fish and chips recalls it, before you head on to Lucca.