Volcanoes and rivers of Auvergne

Start at Lavaudieu, where the abbey of Saint-André has an intact Romanesque cloister. Look in on the refectory and its fresco in Byzantine style, then stretch your legs on the GR 300, which passes through the village. Next, Lavoûte-Chilhac.

At Lavoûte-Chilhac the river Allier bends round the oldest quarter. Follow the curve to see the old houses and the priory, built partly of Volvic stone, and look along the Allier gorges. Then on to Polignac.

Arrive at Polignac, where the houses form a ring around a basalt rock. Climb to the fortress and its tall square keep for a view of the old volcanoes around Le Puy, then stay the night here, in the shadow of the rock.

Arlempdes stands above the young Loire. Climb to the castle ruins on their basalt rock, where the chapel is intact, then look at the Romanesque church of Saint-Pierre and the twisted columns of its doorway. Then on to Pradelles.

Pradelles lies on the Stevenson Trail, the GR 70, which crosses the village. Pause for the wide views over the Allier valley and the far ridges of Mont Lozère, or try the rail-bike on the old line. Then on to Le Malzieu-Ville.

Arrive in Le Malzieu-Ville, on the banks of the Truyère. Walk the listed medieval ramparts and visit the church, then stroll the riverside park before you stay the night here.

Tournemire is all about the Château d'Anjony, which you can visit. Then look closely at the old houses of volcanic stone with their lauze roofs, and step into the twelfth-century church. Next, Salers.

Arrive in Salers and head for Place Tyssandier-d'Escous, ringed by Renaissance houses. Taste Salers cheese, from the pastures around the town, and visit the church of Saint-Mathieu before you stay the night here.

Begin at Blesle with the abbey church of Saint-Pierre. In its treasury sits Notre-Dame du Cheylat, a Virgin in majesty, and the tale of Countess Ermengarde's convent explains how the village began. Then on to Usson.

Usson crowns a hill of volcanic rock. Climb to where the fortress stood, long gone now, in which Queen Margot was held prisoner, then look at the basalt organ pipes and the church of Saint-Maurice. Next, Montpeyroux.

Arrive in Montpeyroux, whose houses are built of golden arkose. Climb to the keep that rises above the village, then stay the night here, with the Allier valley below.

Your last stop is Charroux, a fortified village once held by the lords of Bourbon. Walk through its two town gates, look at the truncated bell tower of Saint-Jean-Baptiste, and take home a jar of artisan mustard. From here the road returns to Clermont-Ferrand.