From the Circeo to the Sabine hills

Your journey starts on the Circeo headland. Walk the trails of the national park, then look into the Torre dei Templari in the old town, and ask about Grotta Guattari, the Neanderthal cave below. Then on to Sperlonga along the coast.

Arrive in Sperlonga and begin at the museum, where the Odysseus sculptures stand close to the grotto of Tiberius where they were found. Wander the white lanes up to Torre Truglia, then stay the night here, with the sea close below.

Begin at Pico, whose castle is the heart of the village. Stroll the old streets beneath it, step into the churches of Sant'Antonino Martire and Santa Maria in Campo, and look towards the Monti Aurunci park, known for its wild orchids. Then on to Castro dei Volsci.

At Castro dei Volsci, stand in the old centre and look across the valley towards Montecassino. Then drive to the deserted village of Montenero, where great stone walls were laid without mortar. Boville Ernica is next.

Reach Boville Ernica and walk its ring of walls and towers before the light goes. In San Pietro Ispano, look for Giotto's mosaic angel, then spend the night here or nearby, with the valleys spread out below the hill.

Climb through Castel San Pietro Romano up to the Rocca dei Colonna for a view across the Valle del Sacco. Pause by the ancient polygonal walls and the open-air Teatro Belvedere di Ponente, then drive on into the chestnut country of Capranica Prenestina.

Capranica Prenestina is all about the woods. Wander among the chestnuts and the old stone huts where mosciarella was dried, or head up to Guadagnolo and the Santuario della Mentorella, an ancient Marian shrine. Then on to Subiaco.

Arrive in Subiaco, where Saint Benedict once lived as a hermit. Visit the Sacro Speco, set into the cliff, and the three cloisters of Santa Scolastica, then cross the medieval Ponte di San Francesco and stay the night here or nearby.

Collalto Sabino climbs a spur above Lake Turano. Follow the walls round the village, look in at the baronial castle and the church of Madonna della Speranza, and if you are hungry, ask for the broad bean soup. Then down to the lake at Castel di Tora.

At Castel di Tora, the pentagonal tower rises above the lake. Take a slow walk through the lanes, then visit the nearby hamlet of Monte Antuni, with the Del Drago family palace. The next stop is Greccio.

Greccio is the home of the first living Nativity, staged by Saint Francis. Visit the sanctuary and its Cappella del Presepio, see the nativity museum, and follow the Sentiero degli Artisti past the village murals before you stay the night here.

Your last stop is Orvinio, the loftiest village among the Monti Lucretili. Visit Castello Malvezzi-Campeggi with its frescoed halls, then Santa Maria dei Raccomandati, painted throughout by Vincenzo Manenti. From here the road leads back to Fiumicino.